With the spring foliage coming into bloom and the mercury climbing, race season is officially upon us.
Kicking off with the QIPCO Guineas Festival in Newmarket last weekend and with the Epsom Derby Festival rearing its head on June 3rd, now’s the time when gents up and down the country will be exploring their wardrobes for the best attire to strut around the racecourse in.
As one of the earliest catwalks to showcase your finery and with honoured guests in attendance, it’s no surprise that race days insist on a strict formal dress code. Whether you’re looking forward to sun-drenched spell at Royal Ascot or “Glorious Goodwood”, one thing for certain is that you’ll want to ensure you’re decked out in morning wear to fit the dress code and reflect the respectable tone they’re known for.
Why morning wear matters: my top picks
People often ask me ‘what is morning dress’ and ‘how do I wear it?’. It’s perfectly natural to want to make sure you’re putting your best foot forward at such esteemed events, so let’s run through your options, shall we?
Morning dress, or morning wear, is a formal dress code reserved for the top tier seasonal events, such as race day at Royal Ascot or a right royal affair, such as weddings or galas.
The Royal Ascot website tells us that “Gentlemen are kindly reminded that it is a requirement to wear either black, grey or navy morning dress which must include [either] waistcoat and tie (no cravats or bow ties), a black or grey top hat, [and] black shoes worn with socks”. Boys aged 10-17 are also encouraged to follow this code.
For the ladies, their options are as varied and plentiful as the colour spectrum. For us gents, while the choices are a bit more limited, there’s still a great spread to get stuck into.
Morning suits
Let’s start with the obvious: the morning suit. As standard, you’ll be expected to wear a three-piece suit and a top hat. The suit element consists of a tail coat, a waistcoat and matching trousers. Perhaps counterintuitively, this is actually the less formal of morning dress looks. Black is the norm, but grey is also acceptable and is more likely to set you apart from the crowd - if that’s what you’re after.
While the waistcoat usually matches, given the slightly less formal nature of the morning suit, there’s no reason why you couldn’t opt for a tasteful colour coordination. Think less ‘contrast’ and more ‘complementary’ - such as a soft pastel to add a subtle splash of colour.
Tail coat and trousers
This is the more formal of the morning dress looks, despite not technically being classified as a suit. A black tailcoat can be contrasted with trousers of a different colour, which acts to highlight the stark colour difference between the three allied elements. Trousers typically don a tasteful stripe but checked is also acceptable.
Novelty is a no-no
While you can opt for a tasteful splash of colour, on your waistcoat for example, be sure to not include any slogans, cartoons or otherwise even vaguely inflammatory imagery! Don’t be tempted to decorate your top-hat with any coloured ribbons either, as only black or grey is permitted within the enclosures at such events.
Style tips
The morning tail coat is often worn unbuttoned, for optimal comfort and to allow movement. Be sure to get advice on the best length to suit your frame, but typically it should skim the back of the knee without extending beyond it. In this sense, proportion is everything.
Stick to a block lining of your coat to ensure the overall look isn’t too overpowering - remember, this is one of the most visible elements of your outfit, especially if it catches the wind. You can include braiding around the lapels of your coat if you wish, which Prince Charles has worn in the past, but overall this is more formal and not a necessity.
Trousers should be cut relatively high in the waist; this is to ensure it is in-keeping with the fit of your waistcoat, so braces may be needed to secure them and keep you comfortable for the duration of festivities. Trousers should not employ turn-ups as it clashes with the formal feel of the occasion and would appear as quite an abrupt visual. After all, the only whinnying should be on the course itself, not in response to your fashion faux-pas.
Shirts should be white, but soft pastels again are an option. A safe choice for this would be what we call a Winchester shirt, which can be coloured or patterned but with a white collar and cuffs. Stick to a turn-down collar - don’t be tempted to ‘wing it’!
Don’t forget your silk tie and slip to make sure you’re stylish, sartorial and savvy as you navigate both the enclosure and the social graces of such an exciting occasion.
If you’re at all unsure or are looking to revive your raceday wardrobe with a new contender for best-dressed,
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